Being a size 16 myself, I know I absolutely DEPEND on lighting, angles and posing to look my “best” – inverted commas because “best” not just to myself, but to the average human eye that can only appreciate a warped sense of symmetry in slim figures.
I’ve had to photograph quite a few women with “real” figures, women who may not always have a problem with their form but are often reminded of how people look at them through a camera lens, or rather, a picture. As such, a photographer who makes a living taking pictures must always know lighting techniques and angles that flatter a heavier-set person.
Here are a few techniques and tricks I’ve learnt along the way:
Lighting: High ratios, low key
If you’re using strobes, use lighting setups with high ratios. This here is a 3:1 Rembrandt setup I learnt at a recent SPA workshop with a soft box key light set at F8 I believe and the fill is at f4. The trick is to “slim” down the subject with shadows so the more low-key, the better.
Angle: Top down
An oldie but a goodie! Get just a step or two up on a chair or stool or anything to gain a top down angle (add a step ladder to your arsenal when traveling) or go somewhere with stairs. This really does wonders. You can also use a wide angle lens but please read my tip on wide angle below!
Attire: Always wear black, V-necklines, sleeves
This is a no-brainer. Black is always a good color for heavier subjects, with V necklines, three-quarter or full-length sleeves.
Lens: Avoid wide-angle unless you know FOR SURE how to use it
A wide angle lens (anything 35 and lower) is a tricky thing. Used right, it can slim down a subject when placed right in the middle of the frame, elongating (and hence, slimming) the legs, shrinking waistlines and adding drama to a shot. It often breaks the Rule of Thirds though, because subjects have to be right smack in the middle of the frame, which doesn’t work compositionally. Unless I have licence (and time) to be creative and know how to handle the lens, a little more practice is in order before taking it out on the field.
Posing: 1/3rd turn and lean towards the camera
This is a surprisingly good angle but hard to pin down because you want to avoid that double-chin from showing as the subject turns towards you but because you’re only seeing 2/3rds of the body, it’s very flattering. I asked the lovely Bethany here to tilt her chin up a little. Having a fence or something to lean on helps the subject to pose comfortably this way.
Do you have more tips on how to take flattering pictures of heavy subjects? Add in comments please!
